Biking Across the U.S (hopefully)
Madison - La Valle 61
It was pretty hard drawing myself out of bed, knowing that I was comfortable, safe, well fed, and well taken care of at my uncle's house. But, after a hearty breakfast, stocked panniers, and some goodbyes I trekked up towards Devils Lake. The park had some incredible views of the lake, except for the bajillion million people there. It seemed like all of Wisconsin decided to check out the lake, but I learned the joke is - Wisconsin is Illinois' state park. It being July 4th weekend had everyone out and about. One scenic glen away from the park was a little spoiled - filled with kids jumping off high rocks into the water, teenagers cussing and blaring music... oh no, I'm old. I was trying to decide on a place to stop for the night with sunset approaching. The closest campground was another 10ish miles, so the first turn off from the trail I found I tried setting up camp... but holy moly the bugs were horrendous. Saw another cut through on the trail, and heard voices... so I followed it hoping these people would know a camping spot. Turns out they've put up lost bikers before, and graciously set me up in a trailer next to their house, fed me, and discussed the follies of Wisco governor Scott Walker (I didn't know that dude was still in office). The wife gave me the best compliment of the whole trip saying 'you're the least sunburnt biker I've ever seen'. My mom would be happy with that.
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Lapham Peak - Madison 60
The rangers at Lapham Peak did me a solid since there aren't actually campsites there... but it meant camping in the middle of a clearing on one of their trials. Since it's a pretty spectacular view of the countryside, I kept waving hello to a bunch of joggers getting a nice AM trail run in while packing up camp. It was kind of a bland riding day along the trail with a mixture of open/exposed sections and wooded marsh along the different rivers' watersheds. I couldn't believe one of the bike lanes on the outskirts of Madison, you could totally fit two parked cars in it and still get through on a bike. Madison treats their bikers pretty darn well. Best part of Madison was getting to spend the afternoon/evening with my uncle Steve, Sandy, cousin Brittany, Tad, and Noah. Great company, perfect meal, and best sleep of the trip. Zeeland - Muskegon/Milwaukee - Lapham Peak 77
Had an early start on the mean streets of Zeeland, so I made sure to put on my flashing red backlight to cut through the morning darkness. The little red light totally protects me from all the cars. Had to bust it a little to get up to Muskegon for a 10:15 ferry over to Milwaukee, which means leaving the eastern shores of Lake Michigan a day earlier than I'd thought (originally was going to take the Ludinton ferry). Some guy said the ferry goes 30 knots on open water... which means nothing to me. But, it felt fast, windy, and cold on the sun deck once it passed the ports' breakwaters. It as pretty incredible watching the port fade, and then a couple hours later, Milwaukee expanding in the forefront. Unfortunately the boat dumped me off 5ish miles south of downtown (so no downtown time), so I bummed around a recently revitalized industrial district on the outskirts of town before hitting the trail that will take me to Madison. Stopped in a local watering hole towards the end of the ride, and got to exchange education stories, podcast ideas, and travel plans with a middle school technology teacher. I feel a little like a cowboy walking into local establishments since my riding cleats click and scrap along the floor. Camped at the Kettle Morain Lapham Peak, which has a sweet old tower overlooking the WI countryside (you can see Milwaukee from it). Being so close to the 4th of July, and being on a peak, I got the pleasure of hearing rumbling and pops throughout the evening. It was kind of cool, but kind of annoying. I also may or may not have checked the bear population/distribution in Wisconsin before turning in. Zeeland - Zeeland 0
When I was hanging out with Larry back in Toledo he mentioned having some zero days on the Natchez Trace and AT trail... a day where you stay put and give your legs a rest. I've always called them burner days, because you're burning a day. But I think I need to get on board with a zero day description since it's not a wasted day - but more a day to rest the 'ol extremities and regroup. Although not on the lake, Zeeland was a pretty sweet place to go nowhere. I walked down and got donuts and coffee, mailed some shizniz, enjoyed some lake perch, hit up the library, had a mediocre milkshake, and patched up the holes in my bags/reorganized my stuff. And did laundry, which is always amazing. I tried thanking Jonathan, saying he couldn't understand how much I appreciated it. All he said was 'trust me, I do understand'. p.s - I've always been a diehard fan of Cosmic in Durham, but Chipotle is pretty solid. And yes, I'm pretty sure this is the first time I've had chipotle. Kalamazoo - south haven - Zeeland 74
From Kalamazoo I was pretty set on doing a shorter 50 mile day, and shooting straight to my next destination - Holland, MI. Somehow though, the woman's words a couple days ago of 'always go to the lakes' stuck out in my mind... so I felt like I had to hit a small town more south on the Lake Michigan shore called South Haven. This would give me more precious time along the shore, and in the end what's a couple handful of miles? Plus there was a sweet trail that led directly from Kzoo to the shore. Riding along the trail I totally misjudged the amount of rain that fell while I was soundly sleeping in the Kalamazoo crack den. Coming to a stop for a road crossing I completely misjudged a mud puddle and slide about 10 feet through it on my shoulder. Burned a hole in my pannier, frame bag, and elbow. But, the extra miles and slight stumble were totally worth it for the shoreline vista AND the tailwind I got for the next 30ish miles. Crashed with a dude named Jonathan who has done more than 17,000 miles of bike touring across the U.S. Pretty awesome to take a break and hear his stories. When he caught a glimpse of my bike I apologized that it's not really a traditional touring bike, and not a great bike in general. 'Dude' he said 'it's perfect - it's the bike that's going to take you across the country'. Knock on wood for that one... but I guess any bike is perfect if it does what it's supposed to. Hillsdale - Kalamazoo 72
Holy smokes, so many farms. I mean I get it... it's Michigan/the Midwest, but come on! It was mainly backroads and highway riding that interworked into a grid. So whenever a paved road turned gravel it was pretty easy to find an alternative route. For about 5 miles of the route I got to ride an almost abandoned road due to a couple "road closed" signs. I rode in the middle, on the right side, did some zigzags... and pulled off to water some trees wherever I wanted. It was awesome. I think when I get back to Durham I'm going to invest in a couple of those signs and put them up whoever I feel like riding. People didn't second guess them... they just turned around. I followed a winding path that ran right along the Kalamazoo river into, well, Kalamazoo. I found the cheapest motel since it was storming all night. Out and about on town I learned it's totally a crack/prostitution flop house. I woke up the next morning alive (thankfully). Toledo - Hillsdale 74
Crossed into Michigan early in the morning and... farms, farms, and more farms. If this is what this part of the Midwest is like, I'm terrified of what happens past Lake Michigan. Better make sure I have some good podcasts/book on tape handy. I stopped in at a coffee shop and asked the woman's advice on which route to take. Looking at the map she said "oh, if you go that way there are lakes. Always go to the lakes." I went towards the lakes. After a pitstop at a used book store specializing in the Wiccan, mysticism, and occult genera (no joke, but I did find a Steinbeck I haven't read) I ended up in a campsite outside of Hillsdale, MI. Apparently there was a 'do not drink' ban placed on water, but my lovely camp neighbors gave me a couple bottles of water. It's hard to convey sarcasm on this, but they were a little terrifying... and I'd already drank a water bottle full of it. But I got my bike cleaned and greased down, so there's that! Huron - Toledo 75
The days definitely run together on this trip. At the end of the day yesterday I kept checking the weather, getting disheartened because it was showing the exact same 10-20mph headwinds for the next day. I couldn't figure out why the weather would be the exact same. Finally, after rechecking it a million times I realized I was reviewing that same days' weather.... so of course it would be the exact same. If you look at today's weather thinking it's tomorrow, it's going to always be the same as today. Pretty soon I'm not going to know what date, day, or month it is. Unfortunately the weather wasn't that different, but I got to hop on a pretty sweet paved trail that took me halfway to Toledo. On the trail a guy named Alan caught up to me (slowed down for me) and chatted for most of the trail. Definitely helped keep my mind off the wind and log some quick miles. I think from here on out, any non-trail path I take is going to almost exclusively be through farmland, which is only going to exasperate the issue of days/time running together. Toledo is a little... rough... so thankfully I had a place to lay my head at a dude named Larry's house. Great guy who hiked some of the Appalachian Trail and (which I'm pretty jealous of) bikes some of the Natchez Trace trail, a paved parkway that goes from Natchez, MS to Nashville, TN. But I guess I have to focus on this trip first. Bratenahl - South of Huron 58
Woke up early to miss Cleveland traffic and head along the shores of Lake Erie. Started off stoked to hit highway 6, my old stomping grounds from my Lake Erie/Ontario tour a couple years ago. That faded pretty quick as a stiff and blustery headwind kicked in, making miles a little tough. Everyone talked about the prevailing western winds during summer months... but since I have a limited vocabulary It went over my head. I ended up working my way inland after 35ish miles along the lake, hoping it'd be a little calmer. It wasn't. But, the good thing about traveling west is the sun is on your back in the morning and really only up in your business towards the end of the ride. Ended up finding a campsite and calling it after another 20. For every headwind there's gotta be a tailwind on another day.... that's the only way karma works. Lisbon - Bratenahl 89
Sally got me all situated out the door with a pannier full of homemade cookies, and even biked a couple miles up the trail the see me off. Reminds of Fred Rogers (Mr. Rogers) quote... "When I would see scary things in the news, my mother would say "look for the helpers. You will always find people who are helping". The people are the best part of this trip. After the last couple climbs to get past the Appalachian hills (Ohio foothills?) I got on state route 14, which had a huge shoulder and took me straight to the trail to Cleveland. When biking a ton of miles in semi rural areas I learned quickly that this whole world is one big bathroom. Side of an old barn... bathroom. Weird turn off that may lead to a farmhouse... bathroom. Middle of a flat road with no cars... definitely a bathroom. Only exceptions are places of worship and graveyards. Random port o potties or side restrooms... not a bathroom, they usually smell and are gross. I got onto the towpath and hike/bike trail leading into Cleveland, which though beautiful in parts (went through Cuyahoga Valley Nat. Park) was a little confusing. At one point I took the wrong trail and cut back on a highway thinking it would lead to the path I needed. While crossing a 300ish foot bridge spanning the valley I looked down and saw this small paved trail running along a river... the path that was supposed to 'link up' with the road I was on. Multiple swear words were said. After getting situated I rode this awesome old canal trail most of the way into the outskirts of Cleveland, then through rougher south Cleveland, and ended at the BEAUTIFUL lakeside house of the sister of our family friends. Again, it's the people who make this trip. |
AuthorHey I'm Alex Soper, a dude living in Durham, NC. Shoot me an email if you want [email protected] ArchivesCategories |