biking
Woke up this morning in a nice, comfy, warm bed. By instinct I jolted a little, ready to pack everything up and start a ride. But then.... I remember don't have to. I was trying to kill it yesterday to finish it out, and now I'm bummed it's all over. Sweet thing about my job is I have a whole 9ish months to plan the next trip. Or not plan it, just go out and do it.
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Traveler to traveler Mark hooked me up with some cheese grits and coffee in the AM, and a copy of one of his favorite travel books by Ted Kerasote. Reading isn't my favorite, but I'll definitely check it out. Idiotically I threw out something that helps with a certain area while riding. Hadn't used it for 5+ days so I figured there was no use in lugging the stuff around. Since it's gotten hotter/mugger there's been a lot more sweating... So had to see if chap stick does the trick. It doesn't. Stopped for my morning donuts and coffee 30 miles in along Long Beach, a tenish miles stretch along the beach with pretty but expensive houses. In the coffee shop I realized how bad I truly smelled. Three days of riding without a shower and even longer for laundry, it was gross. But two lake baths has to equal one shower right? That's math. The rest of the ride was simply Google maps screaming in my ear every three seconds to turn right here or stay on this trail or make a U turn, since it was just a complex maze of shitty bike trails and side roads. Finally though the skyline of Chicago crept up, getting clearer and bigger as I put in more miles... That was pretty sweet. Made it to my aunt and uncles' house and had the most incredible shower of the trip. Hot water, shampoo, soap, the works. I guess I missed some of the little luxuries in life. So that's it... Shows over. Even if I ride tomorrow it's a simple 20ish miles and a little west, so I feel like it won't be much. Whoever someone asked where I'm finishing I always said Chicago, and now I'm here. Since I couldn't bring anything back with me all I have to show for the 2,400 miles is a torn up bottom, ridiculously absurd tan lines, some scraps that will fade to scars, and phenomenal new friends. the beach is so... Prettyi think we have different definitiOnsdowntown Chi town! If You say that fast you feel like a rapperMessed around in Saugatuck after trying to quickly pack up my campsite on the side of the RV park. Google said sunrise was 6:30am so I figured 5:45 would still give me cover of darkness... No dice but thankfully no one came along. Breaking down took me 45 min to an hour at the start of this trip, and now I did it in probably 15 minutes or less. I was excited to spend the morning in Saugatuck because everyone raves about it... How pretty it is and the dunes and whatnot. I did a pretty sweet wooded dune hike in the AM a little after sunrise and had to square off with a family of deer on the beach path. I donno about you but a buck's antlers look a little unpleasant. The rest of the town was meh. A really pretty harbor with an old-school chain ferry. They let the children help crank it across but not me, pretty ageist. Every turn today was a mental and physical feat, either from the long haul the day before or the completely unshaded route. Or from subpar sleep afraid some disgruntled RV owner would wake me up exercising the second amendment. Really nothing exciting or amazing happened on the way to the campsite, just a bunch of trucks and torn up roadway. But I got to the state park I KNEW had campsites and parked close to Mark, a dude doing a multi-thousand trek around the U.S in his little CRV with his dog Jinx. Sounded like he was having a blast, and blogging about it at [email protected] . Frickin good name for a blog, should've thought of that. Did an even better dune hike than in the AM, had probably my last swim in Lake Michigan, and traded travel tales with my fellow tourer. Got to bed super early. dOesn't do it justice, super steepdog!I've got to come to terms with not being a morning person... Because even though I woke up early enough I kind of killed time hanging out with the couple that put me up, having breakfast, and a bit too much coffee. Either that or really didn't want to get back in the saddle. The first half of the ride was a breeze, smoked along the Hart-Montague bike trail, only slowing down for slow riders and this dude sprawled out on the middle of the trail - either still plastered from the night before or getting a really early start on the day. Once the trail ended near Muskegon things got a little hairy. I've forgotten what it's like to ride through larger cities/urban areas, spoiled on the small port towns that are easy to navigate. Makes me a little leery of the next couple days trekking through Gary and Chicago. I got to the Saugatuck state park to camp only to realize... They don't have a campsite, which is pretty problematic when you're beat and ready to throw up a tent. Earlier I called the state park, talked to a woman about camping and thought all was good. Second time calling when I got there revealed the state park about 30 miles south manages the Saugatuck one - so the lady and I were talking about two different places and I sure as shit wasn't about to bike another 30 miles. Thankfully the RV park that turned me away after the state park debacle had a nice unused field/ball court, so I got to spend the evening in the town of Saugatuck with a beautiful sunset, then slipped in to camp. Wasn't the best sleep, but good enough. Ludington to Saugatuck couldn't find the keys to my new whipmy new summer home.... Man that joke never gets old. Really old mansion state park owns for some reason... No one answered the doorThankfully I got hooked up with a cabin the night before, so got a bed in the middle of Michigan's woods. Problematically that meant a great night's sleep with a late AM start time... Right as a storm was coming. I made it about 10 miles before coming to a diner to hide out from the slow torrential downpour that ensued. I really hope the waitstaff enjoyed my company, because they had to put up with me for over 2 hours... Which equates to a lot of stupid jokes and multiple cups of coffee. The plus side is a couple bought my breakfast, but in truth it was a sympathy breakfast. Right in front of the diner is a set of train tracks, and of course, I got thrown off my bike before getting to the restaurant... Right in front of all the patrons. Next time I'll fall in front of a steakhouse and see what happens. The rest of the day was a bear. Huge wind gust that threw me back, and unfortunately a bent rear derailleur from the fall. I had to stay within my three top gears because going lower meant the whole derailleur would smack into the wheel spokes. No Bueno. But you gotta have the terrible days to appreciate the beautiful ones, and I've had a lot of those. Made it to a bike shop in a funk from the past bit, the fall, the wind, low mileage, and who knows what else. Thankfully got it all fixed up and a ride from Rich, where I'm staying with him and his wife Lori. Amazing! It really is people and the company you get that can turn a mood around (and the amazing food they grow themselves, which makes me terrified of the shape my gardens in). not from today's ride... But, hahahaha i see a lot of dumb stuffthose are waves.... On a 'lake'People are greatIdiotically I took a side trip, but had a blast. Can't let regrets pile up like cord wood (simile courtesy of Chip R.), and this trip is all about doing whatever seems like a good idea at the time. I got to ride in a topless jeep right before a storm hit, completely destroy a local bike trail, get some good hikes in, a most importantly spend time with phenomenal people. During this trip I've lost a bunch of things like my hat, phone cord, and other unimportant things - but thankfully gotten some friendships that can't be misplaced (it's my blog, I can be as sappy as I damn well please). Started the actual day with a spectacular bluff hike that overlooks the water and dunes. After that it felt great getting miles in again going south. Perfect low breeze day with just a couple terrible hills and a little lost lunch. Thankfully it was just some gross bagels. I think I'm ready to crush out the rest of this trip... Just destroy the southern coast. May end up in ludington for the night to camp, maybe pentwater or hart. I'll let you know. hard to part Ways with this guyIn the A.M I moseyed down to Sleeping Bear Dunes... First stopping in Leeland. The town is pretty small, but has this group of shacks called Fishtown right on the river/bay where I assume a lot of fishing and cleaning took place in years past. There were a lot of plaques and markers, but unfortunately reading isn't my favorite. Blew past the state park to get to a lake and swim/mess around with Chip from Tcity. That plus some impromptu birding made for a great afternoon. So, per the name, Sleeping Bear Dunes is this group of expansive dunes that puts Jockey's Ridge in N.C to shame. And that night, a mile from the campsite, they did a dune concert series where the audience sat on the dune looking at the stage... To a bluegrass band! What the heck man, I couldn't have planned that! The next morning I clipped up and started the Pierce Stocking scenic highway. Maybe it was just the misty day, but the ride reminded me of the Blue Ridge Parkway with lush green wooded parts, spectacular views, and terrifying hills. Did the dune hike which was kind of cool, just a huge network of dunes that takes forever to climb since... Sand is hard to walk on. After that did a much better hike at Pyramid Point, hung out, and had a great evening. And took a bath in the lake, with shampoo (don't tell the Rangers). That's the perk of this trip, it's just one giant bathtub. Leelanau state park to Empire to all of the Sleeping Bear Dunes park. All of it. fishtown usafiRst time hearing a band... On a dUnedagnAbit... Missed the sUnseta new gifted jersey (thanks again!!!)similar to the Blue ridge, right?i dIdn't see any cansFrom traverse city I decided to head a little right and north, up the Old Mission peninsula. I took my time getting up, packing, and getting coffee.... Because it was tough leaving Traverse City. In just the short time I feel like the place and people are a part of home. Sabrina is just the best for putting up three random dude bikers, but more importantly the most caring/awesome/compassionate person I've met and had the pleasure of staying with on this trip. Everyone I met from the city was super friendly and just genuine, great people. Leaving is tough. Old Mission was incredible though, ranks up there with the scenic rides I've done so far. I hugged the coast, so just a beautiful curving road with bright blue water, some small bluffs, and views of the mainland. Update on the snot rockets - since I'm less allergified it's made it harder, some mishaps have occurred. From there I got to the tip of the other peninsula to the right... I think it's called the North peninsula, but I never got clarification. Late night getting into the campsite but worth it for the day (and I saw a bluegrass band on the way up). Busy day. Traverse city to old mission to Leelanau state park Unsure of mileage Lighthouses everywherehad to say adios to an old fRiendthey just leave pIes in a stand... For me to have (don't worry i honored the honor system)Finally made a farmers market! Every time you roll into a town/city it's like the awesome music festival is in two days, or sweet something yesterday, or baller farmers market every Saturday... And it's Wednesday. So finally made something, and it wasn't that great. I think I'm just spoiled from Durham's blue collar market, because Charlevoix's seemed incredibly expensive and incredibly crappy. I found Torch Lake (hard to miss because it's 16 miles long), and jumped in crystal clear spring-fed water. Best swim of the whole trip! I dumbly had my first real fall.... I idiotically thought I could maintain a decent speed over train tracks and got the front wheel caught in the tracks. Teeth in tact and no broken bones, just some diminished pride. Got into Traverse City after having a recovery beer at a sweet train station converted to a brewery. Getting into traverse was a little crazy because they're holding the Cherry Festival to celebrate... Cherries. And guess who was the headliner for the festival, Vanilla frickin Ice. Stayed with Sabrina who was hosting two other bikers and had a ridiculously fun/awesome time hanging out with everyone, messing around the festival, and breaking out some sweet dance moves. My 'dancing' involves a lot of unimpressive power shoulders and foot shuffles. Awesome, awesome night... Vanilla ice and all. wierd mishroom houses in charlevoix by some famousish dudenot sure what this meanswho the hell uses trains these daysno, yoursMackinaw city down the coast of Lake Michigan seems like a popular route for a lot of bikers... And by biker I mean non-motorized cyclist, but biker too I guess. Fell in with Shawn from somewhere up north of Milwaukee, and it was great to ride with someone at the same relative speed (sorry Vivian). It was funny though, because you constantly have to cut off conversations for cars or have long stretches of staring at this person in front of you without any exchange of words because you both have to get to the same place - and biking at a good speed and talking at the same time is hard. M119, or the tunnel of trees, from Cross Village to Harbor Springs was pretty incredible. A little hilly, but awesome. I imagine it's a shittier version of the Redwood Highway, with some great views of Lake Michigan. Thankfully no one's trying to fly around since it's so curvy and narrow, so biking it felt relatively safe (again, don't tell my mom but I ditched the helmet for a while because it was so muggy). A little north of Petoskey to Charlevoix could be the most beautiful stretch thus far. Both are small port towns (they're all Fing small port towns), and it's just open road with bays and slight cliffs/bluffs on your right. Parted ways with Shawn and made it into the AMAZING home of Mary in Charlevoix - a woman who the family from the 4th of July campsite got me in touch with. Thank you SO much Mary! I don't think I could do this trip without people being super nice and hospitable. Yupbiking buddyharbor # 85 milliongardens! |
AuthorHey I'm Alex Soper, a dude living in Durham, NC. I work for a public school, so thankfully I get a long summer break to try out different adventures. ArchivesCategories |